I spotted this story at the Times, regarding service in restaurants, and it should be noted that this is great advice for high-end restaurants. Would I really object to someone if the wine bottle was touching on the wine glass? Not really. But it misses on two important points, that are noticeable here in Santa Fe (and elsewhere to be fair) even in fairly expensive places. 1) Serve red wine at less than room temperature. My Bordeaux, Cali Cab, especially Pinot and Nebbiolo, should not be warm to the touch. If the wine is hotter than the restaurant...shame on you! 2) Serve white wine slightly warmer than "straight from the fridge." I'd like to be able to smell and see the white in the glass. If it creates cold condensation on the interior, that's a dead give-away. The only exception to rule #2? If you're serving me s--t, say a fine Sutter Home, then yes, please ice it down so I don't actually taste it.
Even at places around S.Fe that have good selections, like SantaCafe, LaBoca (etc...), I've had the 80 degree red wine offering. If I'm paying you the equivalent of the wholesale bottle price for a glass, then it better be properly cooled (or slightly warmed)...

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