2005 Husar de Tarczar, Marzemino (d'Isera)

This poorly-known varietal, Marzemino, can stand-in as a Chianti for some drinkers. There are differences, of course, but this 2005 Husar de Tarczar is grown on a 17ha vineyard in the town of Marano d'Isera. The Appellation is "Marzemino d'Isera" and is found near Trentino (NE Italy). The alcohol is under check at 13.0% ABV. So let's start with some similarities first (to Chianti): good acidity, great with pastas and red sauce. Night 1 with gnocchi in a simple garlic-basil-cured meat red sauce was a fantastic match. It also has about the same color as a good Chianti. What's different? As opposed to the tomato-on-the-grapevine smell that, to me, is a dead give-away for Chianti, this one is more like plums on the grapevine. There's also a definite funk (in a good way) on day 1, that should interest terroir-ists and those inclined to lighter, earthier reds like Pinot. You can find other tasting impressions here.
On day 2, that plumminess really shines through, still with strong acidity, and will go well with the baked chicken/potatoes, mushroom and quartered tomatoes cooking right now. In its favor: the aroma, some bitter chocolate with your plum, madam? Yes, please. Against it, there's a strange diluted 'clipped' aspect to this wine on the mid-palate, but I would guess this is also the nature of its low pH (high acidity) that fools you into thinking so.
Scared? You shouldn't be, go ahead - try it with any red sauce pasta dish. Or a nice slide of real parmesan (reggiano, of course). Still don't like it? I apologize. Love it? You're welcome.
88/100 - not a "great" wine, but interesting to come back to and certainly good enough to try other Marzeminos.
Bottom line: If you can find it, try it out, you may just find your designated hitter when you run out of Chianti or you're just bored with Chianti.